I presume metal is the way to go for longevity if it’s not too much more. On a side note, I’m going to get a few quotes for the job and see the price difference between shingles and metal roof. Would a roofing company typically object to something like this without the approval of a structural engineer? I don’t exactly feel like doing the job myself, nor do I feel comfortable if the integrity of the relocated collar ties and therefore the roof depends on my limited knowledge base. Would asking for a thicker board be appropriate, or am I simply overthinking this? I understand that a bigger bulkier board might not necessarily be advisable, especially if it adds a ton of weight unnecessarily. So my plan now is, because I’m having the roof replaced (on the dime of the homeowners insurance - lightning strike a few weeks ago caused significant damage to the shingles) within the next few weeks, I’d like to ask the roofing company to remove the current collar ties and place them higher at the absolute peak - preferably with stronger material than the current weathered 1圆” boards. Perhaps they are collar ties that were technically placed slightly too low, but collar ties indeed? I kind of assumed the entirety of collar ties needed to be in the top 1/3, not just the top edge of collar ties being in the top third. I must conclude that these are indeed collar ties and can be replaced with collar ties at the top, and/or appropriate ridge strips. The top of the boards are at 57” which is 67.8% of the way from the floor to the peak. If we are to take the middle measurement of these boards they are 54.75” from the floor, which is about 65% of the way from the floor to the peak. Collar ties must be in the top 1/3 of the rafters. Rafter ties must be in the bottom 1/3 of the rafters. ![]() ![]() Therefore, they don’t meet the specifications that “rafter ties” would be required to meet. The bottom of the ridge board is about 7’ (84”) from the floor of the attic. The ties in question are about 51.5” from the floor to the bottom of the ties, 54.75” from the floor to the middle of the ties, and about 57” from the floor to the top of the ties. I just took some measurements of the location of the ties in question as well as the distance to the bottom of the ridge board. But, yeah, it really is a bit strange to have those boards at that height. I guess blocking as spacers could work too. ).Īnd, if there's snow load and or high winds to stiffen it all up, I'd be considering some vertical studs to mimic a knee wall ( if storage is highly critical I wonder if you could do like every other one ) and probably some boards length wise where those mid height boards were. 6ft something (don't know how much space there is. as low as you can to not bump your head?. ![]() Personally, if it was me tackling this - DIY - I'd crawl to the eaves, take a very good look around, what meets what, how is it fastened, if need be add structural screws or bolts, or even structural clips that takes care of things down low then up higher collar ties everywhere, properly fastened. What part of the country do you live in? Snow load? Lots of tropical weather with high wind? The key thing not shown is what is happening where your roof meets the top of the wall and your ceiling joists. And there are some cons that may not fit with you or your house. And the detailing is more complicated and you have less roofers to choose from. If the idea popped into your head because of only longevity, then standing seam is the choice but you'll blow your budget compared with asphalt. Although many are probably handy in other trades, many probably don't even keep a level in their truck.Īsphalt vs metal is much more complicated than just picking ketchup vs mustard. That would verify if you can move them.Ī roofer should not be relied on to do carpentry work in the attic. Your videos aren't very good, the things I would be looking for is length of rafter, their span, and your location roof loads, if the rafters are full length or overlap over the kneewall, whether the kneewall is over any sort of walls below, and the connection of the ceiling joists to the rafter heels. Doesn't get much DIYer than moving these, you can even reuse the 1圆's. They can be at the top hugging the bottom of the ridge board to maximize ceiling space. They only need to be 1x4 and every 48"o.c. They are secondary and do not have to counter much force. Collar ties are often mistaken by most as the main structural component of the roof.
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